Not long ago, Silicon Valley found itself at the center of the
world, a job and money-making machine extraordinaire fueled by the
popularity of the Internet and technological innovation.
Valley chief executives made magazine covers. Hometown geeks
became national heroes. MBAs and politicians came to find the second
gold rush. The money gushed, and people paid $1,000 for a bottle of
aged balsamic vinegar, or $150 for a ``Bubbly Burger'' -- with
champagne -- at a Palo Alto diner.
Those days are a distant memory now. Silicon Valley lost its
strut two years ago, and then some of its bearings last year. Now
the valley is questioning its very identity, as the financial
pounding continues.
Worse, even the love is gone.
``There's some resentment toward the technology industry for
fueling the stock market mania of the late 1990s,'' said Arthur Asa
Berger, a professor of pop culture at San Francisco State
University. ``A lot of people feel the collapse of the dot-coms led
to the collapse of the economy. It was a contagion.''
Some would argue that point, but there's no arguing that the
market value of the Nasdaq, which is chock-full of local companies,
has dropped by $4.5 trillion from its highs in mid-2000. The
reversal of fortune here can be seen in block after block of office
buildings, empty and transparent, with big, indiscreet signs slapped
on them: ``AVAILABLE.''
As the doldrums continue, the valley's can-do identity is shaken.
Business delegations that once came from countries all over the
world, to admire and take notes on the Silicon Valley miracle, don't
come knocking. An unemployed former marketing manager says he is
giving up his job search because looking for work brings the same
result as not looking for work -- no work.
Even the billboards are different. They used to sell to people
who knew what ``synthesizable verilog'' meant -- and wanted one. Now
billboards hawk the ordinary -- movies, water, dandruff shampoo.
Here and afar, belief in the tech capital of the world has been
dented.
``It's almost like being addicted to something and suffering a
withdrawal,'' said Renee Tahamessebi, 40, a party planner in San
Jose. She has seen her big party work -- those half-million-dollar
affairs for 1,500 -- disappear. She now makes a living doing events
for a mere several hundred people on a limited budget. ``The fears
of the unknown begin to play on you. You almost feel like a failure,
but it's out of my control.''
For all the downsized egos and diminished confidence, many people
still feel optimistic about the valley's prospects. Call it the long
view, call it denial. But many are not ready to give up the Silicon
Valley dream.
``This is an episode,'' said Stephen Levy, director of the Center
for Continuing Study of the California Economy, a Palo Alto research
organization. ``Not an identity crisis.''
In fact, part of our history is that the world likes to predict
our imminent demise. ``I've been reading obituaries of Silicon
Valley for 20 years,'' said Joel Kotkin, a senior research fellow at
Pepperdine University and the Milken Institute in Southern
California. ``I have faith in it reinventing itself.''
But the question is, how, and when?
On Wednesday, Patti Wilson held a party for her online job
networking group, which has mushroomed from 20 to 1,250 people in a
year. A career counselor and founder of the Career Company in Los
Gatos, Wilson started the group for people to cope after the Bay
Area job market ``went away.''
Wilson sees Silicon Valley's health directly tied to the
nation's. ``If we're sick, the country is not going to get well. The
vibrant life force of the economy is technology.''
But it's not only the products that tech companies are having
trouble selling. It will take a long time before the public again
buys the Silicon Valley story. The image of the tech entrepreneur as
a cultural hero does not ring true. And although the national
spotlight is on business scandals elsewhere, Silicon Valley suffers
by association.
After all, the dot-com companies began here. And Silicon Valley
sold technology to the troubled telecommunications industry. The
chip industry is gasping too.
When the mighty fall, as Silicon Valley has done, it's natural
for others to take pleasure from it. ``There's a sense that people
think, `You guys got what you deserved,' '' said Michael Perkins,
author of ``The Internet Bubble.''
There are still remnants of the good times everywhere. A woman
speeding down Highway 101 in a black Porsche convertible. A crowd
chatting over lunch at the swank Left Bank in Menlo Park. (But they
aren't ordering the 12-ounce New York steak for $23.75.)
Even some of those who have taken a personal battering don't feel
bowed. Nine months ago, Christine Cory of San Jose was laid off from
her job doing software quality assurance tests for the wireless
industry. She has been actively looking for work for three months,
living off a home equity loan.
``Jobs are a problem now and you're not going to buy a BMW after
getting stock options, but we still have cultural diversity and
brains here. I think technology is here to stay,'' she said.
Or, as John Neece, retired construction union leader, says,
``Some of the glitter has worn off but the substance is still
there.''
Perhaps the valley's biggest folly was to believe its Midas touch
-- the prosperity of the so-called ``New Economy'' -- would last
forever. That belief in tech was so strong that many people held on
to their company stocks when others saw danger. To sell would have
been heresy.
Financial advisers such as Kelly Trevethan, executive director of
the Trevethan Group at CIBC Oppenheimer in San Francisco, would beg
executives at tech companies such as Cisco or Yahoo to diversify
their stock holdings. ``Why should we sell?'' they would ask
Trevethan.
``We had to explain that nothing goes straight up,'' he said.
``People now have been faced with the reality.'' Last weekend, he
called all his clients to see how they were holding up given the
rocky market.
It was an idiosyncratic Bay Area brew, the desire to make money
mixed with idealism, the dream of retiring at 30 interlocking with
the dream of changing the world. The 1960s' counter-culture was
evoked. On 101, Excite put up a huge billboard ``Are you
eXperienced?'' referring to the Jimi Hendrix hit of 1967. At
luncheons, Cisco showed a home film on how its technology was
helping Third World villages.
Even during the good old days in Silicon Valley, it was not a
paradise for many. The influx of money into Silicon Valley boosted
the cost of housing, making the region too expensive for many poor,
working-class and some middle-class people. Some are glad the ride
is over. Still, even some outside of the technology industry enjoyed
rubbing up to the Silicon Valley aura.
``Everyone talked to me and I felt proud to be part of it,'' said
Brooke Baggett, 27, an acupuncturist and massage therapist, shopping
at the Goodwill Boutique in Menlo Park.
Now, what people share is the pain, not the excitement.
At 10 a.m. one day last week, Tyree Scoggins has soft and smooth
R&B playing in the background of the hair shop he owns, the Rare
Touch in Campbell. He splits his attention between two customers, an
older woman ready for her hair rinse and a teenager getting a perm.
Scoggins says he averages four or five customers a day. During the
boom, he saw 10 to 15.
``Women would come in and talk about the stock market and all
kinds of issues and forget that I am a man,'' he recalled.
But the talk in his shop now is not so lighthearted.
``Black women have to have their hair done, and we will sacrifice
for that,'' said Esther Hill, 40, of East Palo Alto, as she waited
her turn in the salon chair. But since she lost her job two months
ago, she's had to cut back on her $85 hair appointments. And there
are no more manicures, no more pedicures.
Few admit their pride has been broken. Not many question the
choices they've made, the education they have sought or the careers
they have picked.
But Nick Rafati has. Out of work for a year, the 50-year-old
project manager and network engineer was so bitter one day last
month that he carted hundreds of his books on topics such as data
communications and packet searching to his brother-in-law's back
yard near Truckee. After digging a hole five feet deep and five feet
wide, Rafati dumped his books and set them on fire.
The books, Rafati says, symbolized everything wrong with the tech
industry -- the cycles are too fast, experience is discounted. His
education and training are rapidly becoming obsolete as he remains
unemployed, he believes. ``I was ready to burn my degrees and
certificates,'' he said.
Rafati, a Dublin resident, now splits his time teaching computer
skills at a nearby elementary school and giving drivers education
instruction to high school students. If he does not find work in a
month, he will leave, he says.
Maybe he'll go to Australia, maybe Iran. He doesn't know. Silicon
Valley, he says, ``is an illusion. Sorry.''
For every person disillusioned, however, there seem to be two
more who are looking for the next new thing. When George Zachary, a
general partner at the venture capital firm Mohr, Davidow Ventures,
meets with friends and fellow investors, they ask each other
``What's the hot new area?''
Perhaps Silicon Valley's current ``bottoming process'' will lead
to a reassessment of its narcissism. How important are we?
``It may take time for people to realize that the sun doesn't
revolve around Silicon Valley,'' said Jim Collins, author of ``Good
to Great'' and co-author of ``Built to Last.'' ``Silicon Valley is
no more or less important than it was five years ago.''